A Summer Picnic Spread
and the art of canal-side dining
One of the best bits about summer is the world that it opens up outdoors. I forget about TV, toss my knitwear into a well-intentioned (but ultimately neglected) ‘to-be-handwashed’ pile, and set my cast iron pots aside in favour of quick, fridge-forward suppers. Snuggy, slow-cooked ragu TV dinner couldn’t be further from my mind, because all I’m thinking about are picnics.
I recently moved to Amsterdam, where my boyfriend has just started the job of his dreams. By happy accident, my arrival here two weeks ago coincided with an entirely unusual (I’m constantly reminded) bout of hot summer weather. Each day after work, the canal outside our flat has transformed into a thrumming lido; people gather to swim, sunbathe, fish and feast on beers and boxes of char-speckled sourdough pizza late into the night. There is a unique joy, I think, to watching people come together to enjoy the sun. I don’t know them from Adam and I speak a grand total of five words of Dutch, but I feel like we all suddenly, instinctively, understand one another. Last weekend, we shared a celebratory glass of champagne with a couple basking in the sunshine next to us; my brother was welcomed in to dinner by a fish restauranteur on the basis of a gifted fishing lure; and a whole canal-front of perfect strangers spent half an hour taking turns to throw a ball for an old gentleman’s Jack Russell. Everyone was just so happy to be outside together.
Naturally, I’ve been using this good weather as an excuse to take every possible meal onto a canal. Not only has it been the best way to enjoy the long evenings to their fullest, but it’s also encouraged us to explore different spots we wouldn’t otherwise have stopped at. The meal that I’m going to be sharing here, for example, was eaten in the shade of a huge willow on a grassy bank in Plantage (some students beat us to the sunny side of the tree 😂). I still marvel at the fact that we were just off a main road in the middle of a city. So if I’m preaching anything in today’s Substack, it’s to pack a picnic rug, throw together some food (no matter how simple), and take yourself somewhere new to enjoy your dinner in the sunshine (I wouldn’t recommend when raining, as that’s just a bit miserable).
Salmon, Jalapeño and Pickled Radish Crudo
serves 3
for the salmon crudo
400g sushi-grade wild salmon, skin removed
1 jalapeño, finely diced
2 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp sesame oil
3 tbsp rice wine vinegar
3 tbsp mentsuyu
1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds
a small handful of coriander, leaves plucked, to garnish
for the pickled radishes
4 radishes, finely sliced
2 tbsp rice wine vinegar
Using a very sharp knife, cut the salmon into little cubes. Combine with the diced jalapeño in a bowl and set aside, covered, in the fridge.
For the pickled radishes, combine the sliced radishes with the 2 tbsp rice wine vinegar in a jar or small bowl. Set aside until ready to serve.
Combine the soy sauce, sesame oil, rice wine vinegar and mentsuyu in a small bowl.
Just before serving, remove the salmon from the fridge, toss in the soy-mentsuyu sauce and arrange on a plate, scattering with the pickled radishes, toasted sesame seeds and coriander leaves.
Spicy Smacked Cucumber and Tahini Salad
serves 3, as a side
1 large cucumber
a large pinch of salt
1 tbsp soy sauce
1 tsp sesame oil
3 tbsp rice wine vinegar
1 heaped tbsp tahini
2 tbsp spicy peanut rayu
toasted sesame seeds, to garnish
(optional) a small handful of coriander leaves, to garnish
Place the cucumber on a cutting board and use a rolling pin to smack the cucumber until it bruises and the skin just starts to break. Chop it into bite-size pieces, sprinkle with salt and transfer to a bowl. Set aside.
Meanwhile, make the sauce by stirring together the soy sauce, sesame oil, rice wine vinegar, tahini and peanut rayu in a small bowl.
Drain the cucumber pieces of any excess water. Return to the bowl and toss with the chilli sauce. Top with sesame seed and coriander leaves, if using, and serve.
Thank you so much for reading! If you liked the recipe (or the ramblings) I’d love to hear your feedback 💛 and please do share the love using the link below.