Umbrian Al Fresco
a dinner in an olive grove
After a glorious week in the Italian sunshine gorging on bowls of pasta, when it came to my last supper I felt like something a bit different. Not that I could ever possibly tire of the food – it is endlessly exciting, versatile and an absolute staple in my life – but I wanted to serve a meal that was focussed entirely on the vegetables, without any delicious starchy distractions. I settled on four sharing dishes revolving around the finest vegetable produce that Coop Umbria had to offer: aubergine, tomato and zucchini. The result was a delightfully fresh, colourful spread, which we mopped up with homemade flatbread (stubbornly, frustratingly flat - if anyone can illuminate me on raising agents in Italian supermarkets, please come forward) and washed down with a delicious, golden bottle of Le Cimate’s Trebbiano Spoletino.
Whilst the food was admittedly pretty nice, it was one of those evenings where we could have been eating tinned tuna and it would have tasted like the finest sashimi in the world. So much of the enjoyment that I derive from food comes from the company, and from the place that I’m sharing it in. I’m sure we’ve all tried at least once to recreate a meal from a special place, only to find it a bland, joyless disappointment e.g. trying to replicate the perfect mediterranean breakfast of Greek yoghurt with honey and peach – so simple, so delicious, but when you’re missing the sun on your cheeks and the sea breeze in your hair, it will never quite taste the same.
Recreating the recipe that I’m about to share today, alone in grey London (boo), this realisation hit me pretty hard. NOT to say that it isn’t still a deliciously delicate summer dish, but it just wasn’t quite the same. So, if you can, make this on a sunny day, take yourself outside, and enjoy it surrounded by family and friends.
Lemony Whipped Ricotta, Zucchini and Pistachio Dukkah
serves 4 as a side
1 large zucchini
a small handful of parsley, finely chopped
2 lemons, juice and zest
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to finish
250g ricotta
salt, to taste
for the pistachio dukkah
25g pistachios, shelled
1 heaped tbsp coriander seeds
2 dried bird’s eye chillies
1 large pinch of salt
black pepper, to taste
Using a potato peeler, peel the zucchini lengthways until you reach the seedy core. In a bowl, combine the zucchini ribbons with the parsley, juice of one of the lemons, olive oil and a large pinch of salt. Massage gently, then set aside.
In a separate bowl, combine the ricotta, remaining lemon juice and zest of the two lemons, as well as a large pinch of salt. Using a fork, whip until smooth and creamy. Taste for salt.
For the dukkah, heat a dry frying pan on medium heat. Add the pistachios, coriander seeds and whole chillies. Toast for a couple of minutes, tossing to evenly cook, or until aromatic. Remove from the heat and grind in a pestle and mortar with a large pinch of salt (or, if you are improvising like me, using the base of an empty wine bottle and a chopping board).
Spread the whipped ricotta evenly on a serving platter. Drain any remaining liquid off the zucchini mix before arranging on top of the ricotta. Sprinkle generously with the dukkah, a glug of oil and a crack of black pepper.
Thank you so much for reading! If you liked the recipe (or the ramblings) I’d love to hear your feedback 💛and please do share the love using the link below.
Again, again!