I love a messy pudding. In fact, I’d go so far as to argue that some of the world’s finest puddings are messy. Take the humble crumble, or a sticky toffee pudding, or the gloriously unselfconscious Eton Mess… all British, all delicious, all pretty impossible to tame on a plate.
With the rise of Viennoiserie, tablescaping and Instagram-perfect puds, it feels like these homely classics have gone slightly under-appreciated of late. Don’t get me wrong, you will find me queuing for Pophams’ latest seasonal pastry and ogling at Ottolenghi’s confectionary window display, but there is something beautifully comforting and nostalgic about an old-school British dessert.
I spent last weekend in Wales with friends. A lot of spicy margarita was poured, a lot of greasy, battered fish and vinegar-drenched chips were eaten, and many an ice-cold sea plunge was taken to cleanse said overconsumption. It was the perfect antidote to our manic London lives, and a beautiful reminder of how sometimes it’s the very simple things (picking wild blackberries / swimming in the sea / being with friends) that can bring the most joy.




On Sunday afternoon, whilst my friends sprawled in a post Sunday pub lunch stupor at home, I took myself up the hill to find some blackberries. It was a quiet, meditative walk, cooled by a rough, August wind whipping off the sea. For me, the act of finding and gathering wild ingredients is probably the most calming and rewarding way I could spend a solo afternoon, and I returned, probably looking like a windswept scarecrow, with deep purple fingers and a triumphant grin across my face. I’d gathered a basket-full not just of blackberries, but also tiny wild strawberries, gorgeously floral and delicate in taste. It was time for an Eton Mess.
Wild Blackberry and Earl Grey Eton Mess
Serves 6
For the Eton Mess
500ml double cream
150g meringue / 8 meringue nests
400g blackberries
200g strawberries, finely sliced
For the syrup
3 bags of earl grey
200ml boiling water
200g icing sugar
In a large bowl, whip the double cream using a handheld electric whisk (or by hand, if you’re insane like me/don’t have an alternative), until thickened and stiff peaks are formed.
Using a rolling pin, lightly crush the meringue to form large bits.
In a small saucepan on medium heat, combine the tea bags and the water. Allow to steep for 6 minutes, before removing the tea bags and stirring through the sugar. Turn the heat down to a simmer and cook, stirring frequently until thickened, but still pourable. This should take 15-20 minutes. Set aside (if it cools too much it may need returning to the heat briefly before serving).
To assemble the pudding, layer the whipped cream, meringue pieces and fruit alternatively in six coupe glasses (or other desired vessel). Finish each with a final layer of whipped cream and a generous, decorative covering of berries. Drizzle with a teaspoon of earl grey syrup on each, and serve with a cuppa tea (or leftover champagne, as pictured up top).
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